Day 14 .... May 10 .... Settle to Malham.... 9 miles

I had a little different breakfast today, wonderful homemade muslei (kudos to the cook), fruit, poached eggs, kippers and toast. I would come back here just for the muslei. Today is market day in Settle, booths set up around the marketplace. I salivated over the cheese display, breads and sweets. The sights delayed my departure until 9:30. I planned today be a short, restful day so I was in no hurry.

Morning Market In Settle

Sweets Booth In The Market

Cheese Booth With Bread Booth Beyond

Steeply up on the fells, I passed a photo shoot, probably for a TV ad, of a cyclist having a grand time testing the fells. The sky was a bit cloudy but, looking back, a spot of sun highlighted my walk of yesterday from Smearset Scar.

South Of Settle Looking North Toward Smearset Scar

A Trio Of Curious Fellows (Or Ladies) On The Fell

I was heading due east, passing by the peaks of Warrendale Knotts and the cliffs of Attermire Scar with over 40 caves tucked away in their back reaches, physically impressive but a mostly gray color that lessens the visual effect. I noticed a couple behind me, slowly gaining ground.

Warrendale Knotts and Attermire Scar

The Wooley Mammoth Lives

As I pass above Stockdale Farm, I stopped for a short rest and water. The two walkers catch up, we chat and they notice my DHW guidebook. She says “we wrote it”. The are none other than Chris and Tony Grogan, the DHW guidebook authors. I introduce myself and they know of my walk from the walkers forum. Meanwhile, it starts raining and we put on rain gear. We chat and walk awhile together to Landscar where they loop back to Settle, just out for a day’s walk. It was a pleasure to get to know them.

Chris And Tony Grogan With Faithful Friend

Gregg and Chris Posing For Tony

The DHW path to Malham Cove led over a delightful limestone pathway, then through Watlowes, an unusually narrow, steep and rocky valley just west of the Pennine Way path. I loved it's ruggedness and yet an almost nurturing feeling.

Limestone Walkway On The Dales High Way

Looking Down Watlowes Toward Malham Cove

I arrived at Malham Cove and inserted myself into the crowd, then tried to get away from the crowd by spending time on the northeast side of Malham Cove, high up on the cliff, watching the Peregrine falcons swoop around. One seemed to be nesting and fought off another bird. There are a few bird watchers, their big lens cameras were out clicking.

Malham Cove From Top Of Eastern Cliff

There was rain earlier, now the sun is in and out. Tucked in a limestone cleft, I had a lunch of banana, sausage and cookie. Lots of people are out here climbing about. One couple had a plastic bag blow away - I thought he was going to go over the cliff chasing it.

Overlooking Malhamdale

I walked across the famous limestone pavement and passed a student group on an outing to study the geology of this glaciated area. I dropped down the 260 ft stone staircase to the valley where I saw a climbing group going up sheer walls, just a practice climb. Following Malham Beck into the village, I arrived at Beck Hall B&B at about 1330, a great place to have a half-rest day.

Glaciated Limestome Pavement On Top Of Malham Cove

A walk around the village, then a stop at Lister Arms for a pint of Thwaites Bomber. I sat at the outside table and talked with a retired man with two Jack Russells. He is local and comes here often. I returned to Beck's Hall for a spell to clean up, then over to The Buck Inn for a dinner of Lamb Yorkshire Pudding and T. Taylor’s Landlords Ale. I ended the day at Beck's Hall reading in the comfortable B&B lounge in front of a roaring wood fire. This place is more like lodge than B&B.

Beck Hall B&B In Malham

The Buck Inn In Malham

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