Day 8 .... May 4 .... Pooley Bridge to Patterdale .... 15 miles
Nice breakfast of fruit salad, croissant w/nutella, eggs and salmon, English muffin. Excellent coffee which always puts me in a good mood. Out the door at 8:45.
It was an easy walk to the fells and onto High Street, the Old Roman Road. I soon stumble across the “Cockpit”, an ancient stone circle large in diameter with smallish stones. Small stones for such a large circle.
High Street Approaching Stone Circle, "The Cockpit"
I leave High Street to traverse around the lower slopes of Arthur's Pike and follow the length of Ullswater southward. If I hadn’t wanted to rest my feet, I would have taken the path up to the summit as I see two walkers doing.
Path With Boulders On Slopes Of Arthur's Pike
View Of Ullswater Looking South To The Helvelyn
Range
I came to a place near Swarthbeck Gill with a lot of
boulders that tumbled down from the crags of
Arthur's Pike. I can imagine Arthur hurling them at
walkers who hadn’t come up to pay their respects. On
my right is the glorious view of Ullswater and the
ferries to and fro.
Rough And Tumble Swarthbeck Gill
Nice Spot To Rest And Have A Bite To Eat
After passing by Howtown, I crossed a stone slab footbridge on Fusedale Beck then over the hill into lovely Martindale. What a treat to gaze over this isolated valley, just inland from Ullswater.
Clapper Bridge Over Fusedale Beck At Mellguards
From Sandwick to Patterdale, I stayed with the Ullswater shoreline along the lower slopes of Place Fell, looking across the water to the Helvelyn range and, tomorrow’s walk, St. Sunday Crag.
I met many day walkers out of Patterdale. One group of youngsters, with teachers, were struggling with their camping gear and soda bottles. Soon I found a huge 3 L bottle of soda sitting beside the trail. I don’t blame anyone for leaving it - I wouldn't want to carry it - but I do blame an adult for allowing someone to bring it.
Outskirts Of Patterdale Looking West
I came to the outskirts of Patterdale and turned right to walk the mile over to Glenridding where I remembered a Cyber Cafe from seven years ago. Yes, it's still there so I got a coffee, a shortbread and computer time. It was only 2:30 pm, so I could catch up on email and write friends and family at my leisure.
I walked back to Patterdale and stopped at the venerable Red Phone Booth next to the White Lion (you C2C’ers know the one I mean) and called Cathryn for a long satisfying talk. I popped into the White Lion for a pint. They had a guest ale from Tirrel Brewery which was excellent. I passed time talking to several locals and two girls walking the C2C. One was dropping out because of leg problems. This happens so often, usually because of lack of preparation, too heavy a pack and not realizing how strenuous the walk can be. In this case, I think it was all three. Such a shame!
Downtown Patterdale - White Lion Inn On Right With
Red Phone Booth
At the hostel, my dorm mate was Martin from Coventry. He is retired from building Jaguars and now does a lot of walking, is going to Pooley Bridge tomorrow via Place Fell and High Street. After cleaning up, we went to the White Lion for dinner. I had a lamb shank that is good compared to a California lamb shank but mediocre for Cumbria or Yorkshire. Martin had a gammon steak. Frankly, I don’t expect great food at the White Lion but I come for the atmosphere, friendly patrons and good ale. This is the fourth time I’ve been there and I’ve never been disappointed.