Day 3 .... April 29 .... Buttermere to Keswick ....12 miles

Today is Royal Wedding day and this day I have arranged to walk with a friend to Keswick, Stuart Greig of Lonewalker fame on After a satisfying hostel breakfast I saw Stuart driving up and we arranged to meet at the trailhead where he will park. Weather was partly cloudy with an overhanging haze, not great for photos. We agreed to walk the ridge route instead of the lower Cumberland Way route along Sail Beck. Nice walk through the trees along the beck, then a slow climb up Whiteless Pike as several youngsters passed. It must be nice to have so much energy.

Beginning Today's Walk Along Sail Beck

Looking Back On Buttermere Water, Haystacks, Scarth Gap, High Crag, High Stile

Gaining Altitude Quickly On Whiteless Pike

The Climb Is Getting To Be A Challenge

Higher up, severe winds tried to blow us off the ridge, I went down once. We estimated 50-55 mph, probably a 9 on the Beaufort Wind Scale. Two walkers are traversing on the leeward side which was a good idea. Stuart said that if he were alone he would have turned back to go the lower route along Sail Beck.

Stuart On A Windy Whiteless Pike Summit

We finally reached the Whiteless summit cairn, then cut over to Wandope summit cairn. Walkers that passed us are sitting around. Will they continue on the ridge or drop off the back side? Wind was still blowing strong. We ascended to Crag Hill, highest point on the ridge at 839 m, then down and up to Sail.

We Keep Following The Ridge To Crag Hill

Gregg At Crag Hill Summit Bracing Against The Wind

Crossing The Scar To Sail

Gregg At Sail Summit - Causey Pike In Background

More downs and ups to Causey Pike, it was like being on a roller coaster. The views were spectacular, winds have lessened, and Stuart is very glad we plugged on through the wind, it felt like a challenge well met. Off the pike, we crossed the road and some fields to join up with the Cumbria Way. Many people were out for the holiday climbing up and coming down Cat Bells. I don't think I've ever seen so many walkers in one place.

Entering Keswick - Interesting Sign

We reached Keswick about 3:20 and Stuart caught the 3:30 bus back to Buttermere. We agreed that it has been a great walk and have really enjoyed each others company. I stopped for an ice cream and met Mike, a cyclist I talked with at Buttermere. We had a spirited conversation about philosophy and American politics - he had studied American society for a doctorate. I’m not sure why! At the hostel, I sent wife Cathryn an email to let her know my progress and to assure her that I am well.

Dinner time - I went to the Oddfellows Arms and had another Sneck Lifter and a Buttermere trout. I had a Buttermere trout last year as well - it has a distinctively wonderful taste. The pub was full with a very congenial crowd. I sat next to a couple, saw their walking packs and started a conversation. We had a lively discussion about the many places to walk. They live near Newcastle and know of the Gregg family (of bakery fame) who may be related to me from the distant past. At the hostel, no rowdiness, no snoring, a nice quiet night. How nice it is.

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