THE CUMBERLAND WAY
Day 1.... April 27.... Ravenglass to Wastwater .... 14 1/2 miles
Neil, the B&B owner, is former military, trained
soldiers in mountaineering and has been all over the
hills. He and his wife settled in Ravenglass just so
he would be on the doorstep of some of the best
mountain climbing in the UK. He told me about a
ridge route to Wastwater, Muncaster Fell, a much
more interesting way to go compared to the standard
Cumberland Way route on the lowlands. He suggested I
take the Ramblers route toward Scafell and loop back
to Wasdale on Whin Rigg but I decided that would be
a ridge too far for me on my first day out. Neil
printed up the Muncaster Fell route, since my
printed maps were limited and didn’t show that area
clearly.
Roman Bath House
I left the village along the beach, passed by the
famous Roman ruins, reputedly a bathhouse, then
inland past Muncaster Castle and up on the ridge to
the trig point on Muncaster Fell summit. There are
clear views of the sea westward and mountains to the
southeast, just a few clouds in the sky. After a
beautiful walk along the ridge, I descended to
Eskdale Green and crossed over the narrow gauge
Eksdale Railway.
Muncaster Fell Summit
Muncaster Fell Trig Point
Descent To Eskdale Green
After stopping at the PO shop at Eskdale Green, I
climbed up over Irton Fell and through Mitterdale
Forest. Thoreau’s cabin (replica) appeared as a
mirage, an art project as the girl resident
explained, a primal ecological experience for
students willing to stay long enough. I think I’m
having my own primal experience.
I burst out of the dark forest into bright sunlight on a high ridge overlooking Strands (Nether Wasdale) and Wastwater. I followed the Whin Rigg ridge a little way for the views and not a little curiosity, then turned back to the path down to Wasdale. It's early yet for the hostel opening so I diverted over to the Strands Inn for a pint of Marlston's Oyster Stout and sat outside with three walkers.
Overlooking Wasdale From Whin Rigg
Strands Inn At Nether Wasdale
After good conversation and a few laughs, I was
ready to go but, being in a holiday mood, the three
forced another pint on me. Oh well, I thought,
what’s the hurry. It's a beautiful day, good company
and a nice view of the Screes Inn across the road.
The ale was exceptionally good too.
Screes Inn At Nether Wasdale
Not used to drinking two pints in the afternoon
without food, I stumbled over to the hostel,
reaching it about 17:30, a fabulous 1829 mansion
overlooking the screes across the lake. Mediocre
food but an easygoing atmosphere, a nice lounge and
a to-die-for view of the lake through the dorm
window next to my bed. A congenial group of walkers
here, mostly day trippers with their cars. This was
one of the nicest, most interesting hostels I have
stayed.
View Of The Wastwater Screes From Nether Wasdale
Wastwater YHA
View of Wastwater Screes From The Hostel