DAY 4 Monday 22 Sept

Inverarnan to Tyndrum 13 miles

Rose Cottage was fairly spartan with a mediocre breakfast. My breakfast scale depends on quality of sausage and availability of fruit. Big zero! But at least I’m not at the Drover’s. We were off at 9:20, crossed the River Falloch again and stopped at the Beinglas Farm shop to pick up lunch items. Oops, I forgot my walking poles in the b&b foyer. Peter was happy to go back and get them, a chance to run and stretch his legs.

It’s a relatively easy walk today over good terrain. Passed by splendid waterfalls and wild rapids on the River Falloch with mountain slopes on both sides of us. Came upon Pete sitting in the sun and the New Zealand couple playing with their little girl on a blanket and the 77/84 yr old couple sitting on a rock having a lovely time. His laugh was like the tinkling of little bells, made us all feel good. Naomi said she wished she could tape his laugh to be able to replay it when feeling depressed.

River Falloch rapids

Near Crianlaric

After Crianlaric, we found a park bench by the path (an amazing find) and had lunch in the sun. Naomi went on ahead until Bray needed feeding. Later, we found them on a rocky outcropping just in time for Chris to do his fatherly duty and change the diaper. There was a long descent, crossing several creeks, finally passing under an old viaduct, crossing a road and then a broad, flat land with high peaks all around. There was the ruins of St. Fillan church and its cemetery, then on to the wigwam encampment with a shop for refreshments and toilet. I had a hot chocolate, Chris had a root beer and snacks. I met a walker who was intent on bagging the many (5 or 6) munros around us.

After Braylon break

Cemetary at St. Fillan

Chris begins carrying Bray, but detours off path to see the stone carving of King Arthur’s sword. Naomi, Peter and I go ahead. We see Glengarry House, our b&b, across the river and the road but can’t find the path to it. So we walk into Tyndrum, then back up the road to the b&b. We check into Glengarry House, very nice rooms. Chris and Bray don’t arrive so Andy (our host) drives Naomi into the village and find Chris having a latte with Bray playing on the outdoor table.

At the b&b, we clean up, get laundry sorted and Andy arranges for a taxi in the morning. Peter is planning to leave early to cover the 19 miles to Kingshouse but, with Bray, we want to start the walk at Bridge of Orchy so we only have a 12 mile walk. Pete is also staying here and comes in at 7 pm. He has walked halfway to Bridge of Orchy and has taken a taxi back so he will only have 15 or 16 miles to walk tomorrow. We all go out for dinner. Except for Chris, he is sleeping.

We choose the Real Food Cafe, a highly recommended fish shop. I have salad in place of chips and some great beer from Edinburgh. Pete has two glasses of chardonnay with his soup and curry. Naomi gets takeout fish for Chris. We have the most fantastic ice cream, homemade. Chris will be sorry. He is a fanatic for good ice cream. We walk along the dark main road one km back to Glengarry House, scary and dangerous, no shoulder. Frankly, I’m not sure why Easyways would book us into a b&b in this location.

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