DAY 3 Sunday 21 Sept

Rowardenan to Inverarnan 14 miles

A beautiful breakfast room, menus on the table, good service and food. Saw fellow walker Pete again. He is leaving early because he is “a slow walker.” I like to pack before breakfast so I can leave just after, but Chris and Naomi are not so organized. Of course, Braylon needs to be fed and changed before leaving, so that all takes time. Off by 9:30 along the track high above Loch Lomond, through woods, under rock cliffs, lots of ups and downs. I take Chris’s photo looking through a hole in an upended tree root. Peter wanted to run up Ben Lomond but realized it would take too much time, so instead, he took the lower path along the Loch to see Rob Roy’s prison (a cave) and met us further down the trail. He said it was rough but worthwhile.

Head in tree root

Lunch at Inversnaid

Stopped for an hour at the Inversaid Hotel for lunch and coffee using the patio tables. We have found that Naomi needs a one hour break twice a day to feed Braylon, change his diaper and give him some play time out of his carrier. We see quite a few walkers from the last two days. There was Pete leaving before us again, the New Zealand couple with the one yr old, and a wonderful couple from over on the coast. She, an energetic 77 yr old, he, 84 yrs old with a twinkle in the eye, a quip on the tongue and a most infectious laugh.

Gregg on the loch path

Friend Pete on the loch path

After Inversaid, it was hard, slow walking over rocks, tree trunks, streams, and waterfalls, lots of scrambling up and down, strange and beautifully shaped trees, even saw a herd of deer in a meadow. Beautiful view at the head of Loch Lomond. After crossing Glen Glas Burn, we passed through Beinglas Farm with their enticing wigwam accommodations and a well stocked shop, crossed the River Falloch and followed the road to our b&b, Rose Cottage.

Head of the loch looking south

Hungry fawn

Again, we arrived at 6 pm, but it was a very good day. A warning sign about midgies was in my room but we, luckily, never came in contact with them on the whole trip. Naomi has developed a heel blister, so I put a compeed on it. She had never heard of compeed, but I never go walking without it. I’ve been using plasters to prevent blisters on my toes.

Sign at Rose Cottage

After tea and a cleanup, we walked down the road to the Drover’s Inn (1705 pub) for dinner. Pete, our 77 yr old friend, was there. He was staying upstairs and said the room is a real hellhole. Apparently, all I’ve heard about it is true. Even the water is not safe to drink, it comes straight off the hillside. But the beer was good (and safe) and he sat with us for dinner. Here is what we ate: Chris had rack of pork ribs, Naomi and Peter each had grilled salmon, Pete had lamb livers, and I had a warm goat cheese salad (fabulous). Our gang went overboard on desserts tonight, chocolate cake w/ice cream, two hot sticky toffee puddings, one w/hot custard and one w/ice cream. No one had sticky toffee pudding before Scotland and they are crazy over it. Consensus was that no one should book in the Drover’s Inn, but don’t miss the food and the funky atmosphere was decidedly unique.

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