Monday May 8 Keld to Baldersdale YH
At breakfast I slipped myself a sausage and apple
for lunch, then goodbyes all around and off across
the river and up around north towards Tan Hill Inn.
It’s a nice day, great views back to Keld and the
upper Swale valley. Once onto the moors it was a
level walk, but crossing many streams running down
the hillside. Then up onto higher ground until over
a crest, Tan Hill appeared as a lonely outpost, the
highest inn in England. I stopped there for the loo
as an excuse to look around and say hello. It was
fabulous looking and friendly, but too early for me
to have a pint. I wanted to stay there!
I headed eastward across Sleightholme Moor, very
boggy and tiring making my way through the mud and
water. Its an undulating landscape with only a faint
trail, white poles to mark the way. After passing
one, I could just see the next one in the distance.
Finally, Sleightholme Farm, then a footbridge across
the beck and up onto the cliff, a very picturesque
area. I cut across high pastures to eventually
descend to the River Greta and God’s Bridge, a
natural limestone slab over the river, maybe 30 ft
wide and 60 ft long. Very impressive!
I passed under the A66 motorway through a tunnel and
sat on a rock to have lunch. A Scotsman came along,
Oliver from Edinburgh, also going to Baldersdale YH.
He asked if we could walk together, he had also left
from Keld but was mostly camping. Nice young fellow,
recently teaching physics in Africa, decided to
“walk home”. I said I would slow him down, but he
wanted to take it easy for a day or so to rest his
feet.
We arrived at the hostel at 4:30 pm and saw Ruth,
the JOG lady, waiting for it to open. She had stayed
at Tan Hill Inn after taking transport to ease her
foot problem with a half day’s rest. Dinner was all
homemade, tomato/basil soup, lasagna, salad and a
rhubarb pudding. Earlier, I had seen the Italian
warden/cook lady carrying an armful of vegetables up
from the garden, so I knew the food would be good.
My feet are tired and my right leg shin is swollen
and painful. Tomorrow, I’ll stop in
Middleton-In-Teesdale for something to put on my
shins, get a phone card and perhaps pop into a
bakery.