Friday May 5 Malham to Horton-In-Ribblesdale
Breakfast was a serve yourself buffet with sausage,
bacon and eggs, a very nice layout. Sausage was
excellent so I took some for lunch. I saw Ruth (the
JOG lady) at breakfast. She is having foot problems
so left early to have time to rest along the way.
The B&B flower garden is incredibly colorful in the
morning sunlight. Horses in the adjacent green
pasture with hills around make an idyllic scene.
Leaving the village I follow Malham Beck, a
picture-perfect stream, to Malham Cove, a
half-circular vertical limestone cliff. The steep
climb to the top reveals an eroded limestone surface
bringing to mind sections of dinosaur backbone. Its
like I’m on top of an ancient world hidden from
sight. The surrounding view of the mountains is
truly spectacular.
After climbing down the far side, I follow a narrow
canyon to Malham Tarn, pass through a forested
nature preserve, a manor house posing as an eco
field center, and on to Tennant Gill Farm. Here
begins the long climb up Fountain Fell. The ridge
seems high above as I pass shake holes, pot holes
and old mine shafts. On top, at the two stone man
cairns, I have lunch and marvel at the view of
Penyghent across the valley. I will soon be scaling
its face, but from this point I don’t see how it is
possible.
Its hot today and I’m shedding clothes. After
descending into the valley and passing Dale Head, I
met a couple near Churn Milk Hole who said they
talked to Ruth. Her feet were very painful so she
took the shortcut to Horton, bypassing Penyghent.
Soon I began the climb up the mountain face, reached
a ledge and thought “how could anyone climb up this
vertical cliff”? But as I watched a fellow come
down, I gained confidence to start up, testing my
vertigo, finally making the top after a scramble on
the last bit. I rested at the trig point, basked in
the views, then descended the far side. It seemed
like forever to get to Horton on this very rocky
track, very hard on the feet, possibly a contender
for the most unpleasant part of the PW.
Braecrest B&B is barely adequate, but at least has a
decent shower. The Crown Hotel has Theakson’s ale
and a good selection of food. Their shrimp cocktail
is a to-die-for appetizer and the vegetable lasagna
with salad (instead of chips) was excellent. I sat
with five Americans working in England for
Hewlett-Packard. They had just finished the 25 mile,
12 hour, 3 Peaks Walk, boisterous and fun, still
working off the adrenaline.