Nice breakfast, but its a cloudy day, rain forecast. I find that Dorothy has only been here a few years. Her long time partner passed on three months ago, he raised goats, so she is having a hard time adjusting. Previously, they took care of Cam house for ten years which must have been quite a challenge. She drops me off at St. Mary's Church in Bolton so I can see the monument to Henry Jenkins who reputedly lived from 1500 to 1670. That's right, 170 years. There are court records. He was called to court when he was about 160 years old to testify on old land disputes. He was the only person old enough to remember the circumstances.

St. Mary's Church in Bolton

Henry Jenkins Memorial In The Churchyard

I set off across flat fields, then it starts raining and I put the Duck's Back on my pack. It's miserable, gray weather, a "pay your dues" day, traditionally the most boring day on the C2C, just plod on ahead. Not much to see even with good weather. At Danby Wiske, I see the White Swan Inn is closed and for sale. A nearby b&b seems to be benefiting from the closure.

Tip Toe Through the Mud and Slog Ahead

White Swan Inn in Danby Wiske

Guarding the Stile

Ahead, I can see the Cleveland Hills where I will be climbing tomorrow. Meanwhile, there is a lot of tarmac walking today. Just before Ingleby Arncliffe I come to the dreaded A19, a dual carriageway with unrelenting fast traffic and huge trucks whipping up the rain. I take a piss in the hedge before approaching so I won't pee in my pants while crossing. Whew, made it!

At Ingleby Cross, I check into the Blue Bell Inn, a small basic room but at least it has a TV so I can check the weather. Had a short talk with Cathryn on my cell phone before the minutes got used up. The van group is here drinking beer but are staying at a youth hostel. They have a unique system of two walking in one direction and three walking in the opposite direction. At end of day, the van sweeps them up and they stay at the nearest hostel. It seems like a lot of driving to me.

After cleaning up and drying out my clothes, I go for dinner in the pub. Its a lively Friday night. I see several groups of walkers and sit with Bill and Katie. They have walked all the way from Richmond today and are staying at nearby Estervale B&B. Also sat with Nate and Jill, a lively couple from London on their first long distance walk. They seemed to think I was the most interesting thing they had met on the trip and insisted on buying me a pint. I tried John Smith Magnet Ale, almost a stout, their top of the line and very hard to find, absolutely outstanding. Veggie soup, salad, and a leek quiche were all extremely good. I reluctantly passed on the hot sticky toffee pudding, but this was some of the best pub food on the C2C. The Blue Bell owner, David, does a superb job of running this old place.

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